Friday, 1 April 2011
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Cycling with a purpose
Since my fall on monday at Gisburn Forest, plus the fact that my Raleigh is without a rear wheel (dead rim), I am a bit reluctant to go straight out on the bike as it is a bit of a nervous affair to cycle with a fresh injury. With the leg still hurting a bit, but more like stinging, I had no plans to go offroading for a while until the wound has healed enough to put protection back on!
Since I had booked Monday and Tuesday off from work, and Monday was used around Gisburn, I "conned" Mrs B to go to Chiquitos, with one condition. We cycle there! Since we live inbetween two restaurants, one is distinctly easier to get to than the other due to having quieter and more urban roads. The Middlebrook one is a major A road away but the Preston docks one is smaller A roads and streets so easier to navigate and easier for Mrs B as she hasn't been on a bike in a while.
The route there is fairly flat until the last half mile where it drops to the docks, which meant the route back with a stomach full of food would include a short sharp climb towards Lostock.
The route there is here. and the Return leg is here.
You will notice the outbound route is longer as we stopped at Morrisons to get changed, but couldn't be naffed on the way home so we got changed at Chiquitos! (hope they didn't mind as we plan to go back again soon!)
I luckily wore bib tights so it not only protected my injury from the elements it also kept it warm. BIB Tights FTW! :)
Monday, 28 March 2011
Gisburn Forest Loop
This loop begins and ends at the Cocklet Hill car park. I have missed out a little bit right at the far end of the loop which includes a rock drop but since I was out on my own I did not fancy doing this and getting it wrong.
As it turns out, I still crashed on a section called "hully gully" (you will find numerous vids on youtube of this bit as its quite infamous.)
This is the result of said "off"!
Sunday, 27 March 2011
August 2010 - Trip to Innerleithen and Glentress
The plan was to stay somewhere in Peebles or Innerleithen, preferably Innerleithen due to its close proximity to the Innerleithen trailhead. I had found a converted terraced house which had been made into two apartments, one on each floor, but with separate access so no common door. The price was a very reasonable £70 PP for the 3 night stay.
Once we got there, we realised HOW close it was to the Innerleithen trailhead, it was 5 mins on the bike! MINT!
First attempt around Innerleithen was a bit iffy, since we'd driven up that day, plus gone shopping then gone to the pub AND had a BBQ, so we were a bit oiled and fuelled so no much oomph, PLUS it was raining, but still here we were.
Next day we tackled Innerleithen again but this time to do the full loop. Yesterday we cut it short due to running out of daylight plus need some more alcohol :) It rained again but only a drizzle, however the midges were out in force and had it not been for a dash of Avon Skin So Soft, I would have been screaming murder! That stuff is brilliant for midge repellent, even though you get funny looks when you tell them what you use, it certainly works!
Myself and one guy cut the red loop a bit short and missed out the big climb to the top of the mountain, but the other two guys carried on, and boy did we miss out on some amazing bit of sweeping singletrack. A video of this is done by my mate who did it on his Contour Camera.
Rivington Pike and Healey Nab
I have to admit, my balance leaves much to be desired, never mind my fitness/physique/weight issues! This leaves me in somewhat of a pickle when going offroad since the trails are not level nor are they smooth, or even curve gently!
Since I live in the shadow of the west Pennine moors, I have the luxury of having some excellent offroading opportunities within cycling distance, although most of the time I drive there to save energy (and i cannot be bothered!) However I do have Rivington Pike within 10 mins drive, which seems far but I have to drive through Chorley to get there. Healey Nab is another place which is even closer but that is more aimed at the more serious cyclist as the causal one might be put off by the severity of the trail. It has Red and Black route trails which are experienced to downhill skill level riding. By this i mean it is almost compulsory to ride the Black on here with some protection other than helmet. Rivington Pike is more accessible to anyone fit enough to climb the path up to the top, but the views from there are fantastic.
Brief Summary
Rivington Pike.
Personally I would park at lower barn car park, which has a cafe during the weekend, I cannot vouch for weekdays as I have not been there. And then ride up towards the pike following the well used trails marked. There is very little in the way of guidance in terms of signposts that i have noticed on the way up but this is not primarily a cycling site, it is open access to all, so you will find ramblers and the family day out to dog walkers, and on Sundays a motorcycle club meets up at the Rivington Hall Barn, and I recall a BBQ laid on in the warmer months :). I suggest you get an OS map, or look it up on google maps or similar and see how the trail leads you.
This is the loop I have been doing, and at just past 9 miles is the start of Healey Nab which is optional.
Healey Nab
Healey Nab was constructed by local riders in conjunction with Lancashire County Council, to provide a facility for the more experienced riders to have fun in the locality. I am sure there is more to it and if you Google it I am sure you will find more info on the subject but that is how I perceive it.
I first went to Healey Nab about 18 months ago on my hardtail (I did not own the Banshee by then), and as I was still a bit iffy on the more technical trails found it a lot to take on in a short space of time. Since then, they have had fairly regular trail building days and I have managed to attend one of them, I am ashamed to say that I should have gone to more but with mrs B working some weekends, getting away is not that easy.
Here is a link to a route I did a few weeks ago. It begins at the upper car park at Rivington, then encompasses Healey Nab. The site is where mile marker 7 is located, so you can work out roughly where the site is. If you make your way to the top, there are signs marking the start of the trails and point you in the right direction, but this only occurs at the trailhead not before. You need to know where to go to get to that point.
I would advise parking around here, then cycling to the gate here, and head up the track up until this point where it forks up to the right and follow that until you see the forest ahead of you and a newly installed wooden gate. This is the entrance to it and follow the signs from there.
Time to go and what to take
Rivington is suitable all year round to be honest, but since the majority if not all of it is hard packed ground there is little point taking aggressive tyres or mud tyres. However, Healey Nab is under tree cover and drainage is ok but not great so when it is bone dry and a spell of hot weather has been around, then again some decent XC tyres should suffice, but in the winter and during a wet patch, I would recommend something with a bit more bite.
Saturday, 26 March 2011
Cycle home from work
Cycle to Work on a saturday
Friday, 25 March 2011
My foray into Single Speed
You can buy off the shelf single speed bikes from people like Specialized with their langster. I have never seen one up close but I have spoke to some people who have ridden and owned one and one in particular told me they have a "flip-flop" hub. What this means is that its a wheel with a cog on both sides, however if you put the wheel on one way its "fixed" i.e. no freewheeling, so when the wheel turns so will the pedals no matter what direction. And if you turn the wheel around, IE "flip-flop" its got the same cog size but is freewheel, so when u stop pedalling it freewheels.
This type of wheel setup gives you the option of either going hardcore fixed wheel or the more user-friendly freewheel. It has been said though that everyone should give a fixie a go at least once. It is a great workout as you do not get a break from pedalling and also you use your legs to slow the bike down, which explains why you might see some fixed wheel bikes out on the roads with only one brake or no brakes at all.
I digress, I am writing this to explain how I came about to have a SS not the story behind the bikes in general. I subscribe to a mailing list from Freegle (formerly freecycle). Freegle is basically a way of getting rid of unwanted items that would normally end up in a tip or on eBay, but you cannot be bothered to do either, OR you would prefer to see if someone else wants them instead. This is a great way of extending the life of something that would normally end up on landfill.
So far I have accrued the following from Freegle:
- PS1
- PS2
- Nintendo Game cube
- Garden Shed
- Roof Bars
- Bike Rack for Roof Bars (x2)
- Townsend Mountain Bike
Now as you can see my new acquisitions are fairly "blokey", in that they are either games consoles or something to do with my main hobby. All of the above I still have, except for the garden shed, which although I still have it technically, I cut it up into firewood as it was too rotten to be used safely and securely.
So onto the bike. When I eventually got round to doing something about it, I had considered cleaning it and using it like any other mountain bike, except I already have 2, and this one is a rigid bike (no suspension), therefore offroading would be quite taxing on the hands and wrists. Since the mechs were old and past their best, but the wheels spun well and without grinding, I did some research, plus some hassling of a fixie owning mate, and decided on making the bike into a single speed.
There is some technical research to do before you go out and buy the relevant parts. What you don't want is to buy the wrong ratio and either face anything but pancake flats and the gearing too high to be able to make it up the hill, or conversely anything other than climb be a fruitless attempt at pedalling as your ratio is too low. Same friend mentioned that I go out on the road bike or the mountain bike and shove it in a gear I could ride all day long with no issues.
I went out on the road bike, fiddled with different gear combinations and made a note of the teeth on both the front and back. I then went to the CTC website and downloaded their gear chart. (this is an excel sheet).
This gear chart can help you plot what your preferred gearing is on your existing bike and give you a figure.
Firstly, you need to go back to your notes about the front and rear cog teeth count and plot these on the chart. both should cross on a square with a figure. This figure is very important for your Single speed build.
Now, you need to work out what size chainwheel you want, so you could opt for a lower ratio'd mtb-style such as 38T, or a higher road-biased 42T or even 52T for the crazy folk out there! Your next task is to plot on the chainwheel teeth column until you find the original figure you worked out earlier. Don't worry if you are not spot on, nearest figure will do. Then that line will tell you the size cog you want on the back wheel. Once these are in place you will then realise your distance per pedal stroke is very similar to what you had when you did a test run on the road bike.
This may sound like a lot to understand, and quite possibly I have made it more complicated than need be, but it is how I understood it, and its important that I understand it because I can then calculate if I need to make changes to adjust to the differing terrain I plan on riding.
It really comes into its own when commuting or doing errands, as I have put a pair of "flatties" on it (flat pedals with pins to grip on rubber soles). So I can use anything on my feet, even slippers or crocs if the need arose! Plus without the worry of gears it is especially good at starting off from traffic lights, plus maneuvering around traffic as I don't have to worry about making gear choices.
Shopping List:
Lunchtime loop including th'asda stopover
Thursday, 24 March 2011
The next challenge
This is what was going through my mind when I was browsing the web and came across the Kilotogo website. They specialize in events called Sportives. Sportives from what I understand, however you are free to look it up yourself, are not necessarily races nor are they fundraisers, but purely challenges, sometimes against the clock, to finish a ride within a certain time.
There are famous ones like the L'Etape Du Tour. This is where you can ride an actual stage of the Tour de France. There is a catch with it though, as the sportive is to climb one of the cols, such as Tourmalet or Alpe D'Huez and such like. In other words monster climbs, not necessarily nasty gradients, although some are, but you climb for mile after mile after mile. Something you cannot do very much in the UK. For me this is waay too difficult for my fitness, but I would like to think that one day....
Anyway back to reality. There are many UK-based ones, quite a few run by many companies not necessarily Kilotogo. A very well known one in the north of England is called the Cheshire Cat, which incorporates a notorious climb called Mow Cop (youtube has plenty of videos of this climb!). Even though its not quite a Col climb, it does claim many victims who succumb to the gradient and push.
I wanted to do something of significance to me, and I had seen cycling rides around Pembrokeshire (where I grew up) but nothing was forthcoming, until that is, I came across the Kilotogo website, which had the National Trust Pembrokeshire Challenge Ride. I had, maybe foolishly, opted for the 80 Mile loop which was the biggest but it holds significance for me as part of it goes through the village I went to school and where I spent many years as a child growing up.
If you click on the link, it will show in greater detail about the route itself, however I do have local knowledge to a certain degree, which is not as good as it used to be as I have not lived in the area since 1997. Knowing full well I can cope with 60 miles with minimal feeding and liquid (my own fault, not by design), plus the fact I have not ridden with anyone before now, I've always gone solo out on bike rides on the road mainly down to convenience and happy that I can cope with my own pace but unsure if I rode with fitter people I'd be struggling and not feel good about it.
The profile of the route is this: (provided by the kilotogo website)
As you can see, its pretty undulating until around the 45 mile mark, it starts to climb for a few miles, and this is where I know where it is on the road as it is quite near where I grew up, so I can sort of psyche myself up for the climbs, but also know on the other side is a few miles of flat to downhill so you can recover and take it a bit easier.
I have since found out that there is another event in Pembrokeshire for the avid cyclist and that is the Tour of Pembrokeshire, which is a cyclosportive (more or less the same) however the distances are greater, with the longest being 117miles, including the climb on the B4329 north towards Cardigan which has 650ft of climbing in 1.5miles, and isn't a nice experience in a car never mind a bicycle! This wouldn't be so bad if this was near the beginning of the sportive but it's not. The big loop which encompasses the majority of the county is here.
Maybe in 2012... :)
Wednesday, 23 March 2011
Training Routes (road)
Even thought the first mile or so from home is always the same, I can turn off and go in different directions and end up at the opposite ends of the county to the other loops fairly quickly.
I use a couple of websites to plan the route I want to do, but I do not tend to re-plan it once I have done it once or twice since by then I should know the route/time/distance off by heart.
The main one I use is Mapmyride.com. I have been using this website for a few years now to plan short routes, long routes, undulating routes, hilly routes, easy routes, you name it. A new-ish feature that it provides is to be able to follow roads. This means that when you are drawing your route, you do not need to click at each bend in the road and roundabout to draw, you just click at various points and it will draw round the roads for you. Sometimes it will draw the shortest route which in reality is not feasible due to side streets and so forth when you want to go down the main road, but you can "pull" the route out to the main road and the website adjusts accordingly.
One of the main reasons I use mapmyride, besides the fact it does route mapping (which you can save to view later or to share to other people), is that it gives you elevation details. This means you can see how hilly both to climb or descend the road is, so you can gauge your energy to not be wasted by the time you hit the big climbs!
An alternative website I use, is Endomondo. This is a newer website for me, ever since I was given an IPhone as my work phone. Previously I had a HTC Snap which had god-awful GPS signals if it did not see the sky without obstruction (which made putting it in your pocket a no no!). The iPhone will pick up the signal and work fine with it even if its inside a rucksack or pocket, which is ideal for cycling.
Whereas both websites can plan routes, endomondo does not give the functionality to follow roads so you have to literally click on every corner to get the route mapped.
Since it is a work phone I won't pay for more advanced apps to follow routes, therefore I will use the device to track my progress so I can check it when i get home. I currently use a cycle computer on the bike to do the tracking for me which is just as good as a personal trainer as there is nothing worse than seeing your average speed drop or even your current speed drop!
Loops
Local <60 minute loop
This loop is one of my favourites since its fairly short at just over 13 miles, and is not very taxing except for the first half mile which is a climb past Chorley Hospital, which considering is less than a minute since leaving the house, is not the ideal way to start a ride to warm up. This loop then heads down the A6 through Chorley, which can be quite interesting during my more convenient night rides. then turn towards Wigan at Fredericks Ice Cream shop. This road is not as well used as the A6 but does have some nutters who use it as a rat run between Wigan and Chorley. I turn off this road towards Coppull at Jolly Tar Lane, which then takes me into the back of Coppull, which I then head through Coppull and out towards Charnock Richard on the A49. I stay on this road for a few miles, enjoying the decent downhill on Charnock brow, heading into Euxton, then I head towards Chorley through Euxton and via Astley Village and home. I do this in between 45-50 mins depending on traffic lights and my condition, not forgetting traffic volume and speed as well.
25-ish mile loop
This loop begins the same as the above but turns onto Runshaw Lane in Euxton, and head towards Leyland, going past Worden Park, then head towards the bottom end of Leyland and follow Leyland Lane north towards Bamber Bridge then stay on the A6 all the way back to Chorley and head home past the hospital. This is not a good loop to do with a southerly wind as the A6 can be quite open and is awful to cycle into wind on that road, so I tend to cut it short and go down the A49 then through Buckshaw Village and home.
58 Mile 4hr Loop
This ride can be summarised by the following. Chorley > Horwich (via chorley new road NOT A6) > Aspull > Wigan > Orrell > Skelmersdale > Ormskirk > Southport > Bretherton (skim past it) > Leyland > Buckshaw Village > Home.
This loop was done recently and I stopped twice for 10 mins then 2 mins
Work-based loops
More recently I have begun to take my singlespeed bike to work to go out for an hour during lunchtime, especially since the more recent weather is a lot milder and cycle friendly without 15 layers and balaclava!
These loops are limited since it has to incorporate getting changed into and out of cycle clothing in the lunch hour. Therefore 3 loops have been marked, one being around Pennington flash, but the other two are the same except for the longer one which is an extension of the shorter one.
Pennington Flash Loop
This is more suited to the singlespeed or even a mountain bike but not the road bike since the paths are rocky and muddy in places and not suited to anything but mountain bikes or anything that's not got road-biased tyres. Luckily it has been dry recently and I have been using the singlespeed with the kenda tyres and its been OK, I did have to push at one point because it was too muddy but I went out today and it was all rideable. (I have shared the route on a separate post so you can see the loop on the map)
11 Mile Loop
This loop goes through Newton Le Willows > Earlestown, and heads towards St Helens and loops back round the back of Newton and back to the office. It has no gradients to note but is good to get the legs spinning, especially on a single speed.
15 Mile Loop
This extends the existing 11 mile loop a bit further towards Sutton (south of St Helens.) and is more suited to the road bike if its to be covered within the lunch hour, however I have done this on the single speed and was back within an hour but only just.
Building a wheel from scratch
This decision was made for me after an "incident" at Lee Quarry on my Banshee. Front wheel beyond repair, but still salvageable with the hub only, since you are not advised to re-use spokes once tensioned and the rim was, well, bent!
Ideally a Hope Pro 2 hub would have been on the bike since its classed as "bling" and a well known brand. This tied in with the fact that they are made in the north west kind of pulls you to keep local businesses going. This was but a pipe dream since the Hope hubs are a teensy bit out of my price range, and 2nd hand ones were going for a fair whack on eBay, which just goes to show their quality and following.
So, the alternative but by no means second best option, were Superstar Components (you will no doubt hear this mentioned quite a few times across my blogs!) They had a deal on their evo switch front hubs which were in red, which is a bonus since half of my bike is red already. So I snapped one up, after selling old bits n bobs on eBay. Next step was to source a rim. You cannot buy spokes until the very last as measurements from both the hub rim decide which length spokes you need, but I will cover that later.
After some eBay searching, I came across some El Gallo rims. Since the postage was nearly a fiver irrespective of how many you ordered, I ordered 2! This was on the off-chance I came into some money or I broke the rear wheel too. These arrived much to my delight, however I was not out of the woods yet as a crucial figure is needed from the rim in order for the spoke lengths to be accurate.. ERD, or Effective Rim Diameter, which, according to the infamous Sheldon Brown, is "This is the rim diameter measured at the nipple seats in the spoke holes, plus the thickness of the two nipple heads. The E.R.D. is needed for calculating the correct spoke length." link to the original information is here. In fact Sheldon Brown is the source of all cycling knowledge for me and a thousand others!
I had to obtain the ERD for the rim from the seller who in turn contacted the manufacturer as you cannot get this wrong or the spokes wont fit and/or the wheel wont be true.
Since the Superstar website included the measurements of the hub, that bit was done for me. All that there was left to do was use the information gathered from the hub and the rim and put them onto the DT Swiss spoke calculator website. It will ask you all the information you need and will give you the required spoke lengths for each side of the wheel. Do not assume the spoke lengths are the same on both sides as they more often than not are a few mm different. Also make note which side is which when building as it will soon become obvious your wheel will be one sided and not centred on the hub.
I ordered the spokes based on the results from Chain Reaction Cycles, another regular website that I visit for parts and spares who have a reputation and service which is second to none. After some advice I opted for the DT Swiss Competition Spokes in black. These came with brass nipples (stop giggling!), which are ideal for wheel adjustment after a few months/years since they do not rust or seize on the rim or spoke.
Once all the pieces were back home, I reluctantly began the lacing process. I will not go into why and wherefores as I will leave that to Sheldon Brown's Wheel Building page. So here is the progress of my first wheel build.



Thats it, done, around an hour after reading on how to do it, stopping to pick up nipples and spokes going everywhere, its done.. (or so I thought!)
The next day I took it to Paul Hewitt Cycles in Leyland who I have used before to true it. £17 (inc rim tape) later, followed by a little hint that I had laced it incorrectly! I had gone the wrong way and not followed the rim eyes which were sided. Lesson learnt!
So, that was the front wheel done, albeit after some relacing by Paul Hewitt!. For about 4 months, I had a rim in the house, with no bike to give it to, until I had started to build up the Singlespeed Townsend bike, and had more to sell on eBay, and since the items were selling well, I decided to buy the remaining bits for the rear wheel, however the rear hub was a lot more expensive than the front and took a lot more selling to get there, but get there I did.
The pictures don't look much different to the front wheel but I assure you its different. (plus I had learned my lesson and dont it right this time!)


And the result of the hard work..

Tuesday, 22 March 2011
Current Collection
- Giant Rincon '06
- Raleigh Dyna-Tech 500 (year unknown)
- Carrera Banshe (year unsure!)
- Townsend 21sp MTB (now a singlespeed commuter)
- Ribble Road Bike (owned for a month or so)
I was quite happy having one bike as a do it all go anywhere type, however I had soon come to realise that I needed something a bit more road-biased so that I could go out and enjoy road riding a bit more without the huff and puff of heaving a heavy mountain bike on road tyres around. Since I am not what you would say easily succumbed to the new market for bicycles, I therefore trawled ebay for a suitable candidate.
I initially spotted an old classic Ribble bike for 50 quid but it was in Knott End (north of the Fylde peninsula) which is a fair old way from Chorley. Nonetheless I won it and was eager to bring it home, but soon realised the pitfalls of buying "green". I did not find out what frame I should be getting and this one was obviously too big. Could not even straddle the top bar without tiptoe! However I took it out for a ride for a mile or so and realised two things. Firstly that it was too big, but more importantly that I had now confirmed I definitely wanted a road bike.
So, more trawling through ebay and after being outbid on a few, I won an old-ish Raleigh Dyna-Tech for £100! Bonus being it was a mile away! So I went to fetch it and was overjoyed as it was in pristine condition.. (ie never ridden much!)
Brought it home and this is what I got for £100.

The tyres seemed ok although a bit worn and weathered, brakes ok, although the brake cables/drivetrain needed some attention but for the money I think I grabbed a bargain. Trawling though ebay these days you'd be hard pressed to find a bike in this condition for that money these days.
Shortly after I bought this bike, we moved house, and it was put in the garage for a month or two whilst the house was being sorted, however after going out on it and putting some miles underneath the tyres, realised that some issues had crept in. Notably the bottom bracket had seen better days, as had the cassette and chain, and also the brake cables (gear seemed ok). However since the bottom bracket was pre-cartridge and had probably been in there since built, the cranks would not budge and had to resort to shoving a wedge between the crank arm and the bottom bracket and giving it a whack! This relieved the crank arm of its duty for the time being but gave myself and my mate (with said wedge) an opportunity to examine the issue (worn bearings etc. etc.) and find out it would take a cartridge bottom bracket (much much easier to replace) I also ordered a new cassette, chain, and brake inners and they were put on and the bike felt like new! But then the wheels were not running quite true so I took them to Paul Hewitt Cycles in Leyland and they trued both wheels for me and now I had a bike in good order.
Carrera Banshee
Back in October 2009, I had to have an operation on my foot to correct a bent toe, called a Stainsby Procedure. (google it if you have the stomach!). This meant I was out of action of any kind for at least a month.. which turned out to be 2 months off work, with the first month incapable of unsupported mobility as I had a big pin stuck in my foot for 4 weeks and had to use crutches to go anywhere. The second month was spent recuperating and rejoining the population as I had become used to spending the day in the house, I didn't like going out, and the first time I went to Tesco for the first time freaked me out!
Anyway, since I had a lot of time on my hands and I had been thinking about getting a full suspension bike for a while now, I had dreamt of getting one which was new-ish, had bling kit on it and was the dogs. However I had to be realistic and buy something which would not put me in debt much less at the expense of the family, joking aside!. Back to old faithful Ebay once again, and after much trawling and convincing the other half this was worth going for, I won a full suspension bike (albeit it needed some work on it to get to my standard!) for £135. A lot of you would think this is waay too cheap, however on looking on similar bikes of the same make and model I got mine a lot cheaper than what it should have gone for. On reflection I think I used the bidding at the last minute to my advantage and not go silly.
Of course there is a BUT in this story, and this BUT was the fact that this bike was in Yeovil, Somerset, which is around 250 miles away! Not only that, I could not drive so I had to convince mrs B to get in the car at 7am on a sunday morning with our kids in the back on their DS' and drive for 5hrs down through most of England to pickup a bike. After many hours and a fry up on the M5 we eventually got there on a rainy and windy sunday lunchtime.. and this is what I got for my efforts.
Maybe the person selling it knew what was wrong with it or was
obvlivious, but back then even to someone like me who did very little bike maintenance or parts replacement knew something was amiss.
The biggest issue was that it had a 8sp shifter and a 9sp cassette! Another issue I had to contend with was this had SRAM kit on it, and I have never used SRAM before, only Shimano. This meant I had to learn how it shifted and worked compared to Shimano which was on the Raleigh and the Giant.
However this was not going to put me off, so I made a shopping list of bits this bike would need If i was going to use and abuse it on a regular basis. Other bits I bought mainly for aesthetic reasons but they have their uses, I did not buy something purely for its colour if an item on the bike did the job already.
So this is what I replaced (part 1)
- Lock On Grips
- Azonic Strip Bar
- Deity Components Stem
- Charge Spoon Saddle
- Sram X7 Rear Mech
- Sram X7 Rear Shifter
- Sram X7 Front Shifter
- Maxxis Minions DHR and DHF Tyres
- New SRAM Cassette
- KMC Chain
- Shimano Double and Bash Cranks
- Bottom Bracket
A colleague had bought himself some Lyriks to go on his Specialized FSR and had longer Toras than I had so I have "borrowed" these from him, such a generous chap!
However in the process of swapping forks, realised the headset on mine was a bit faffed too, so a quick trip to Merlin Cycles in Buckshaw Village saw myself a new FSA headset with fork fitted. I did not want a star screw in the fork, don't ask why I don't remember now, so I opted for a Hope Head Doctor which works just as well and looks better. Yes I admit this item was probably the only aesthetic bit I got for it.
The timeline gets a bit fuzzy now so from the initial rebuild to now, here is what's been done to it since.
- Raceface Hollowtech BB
- Shimano Hollowtech Cranks
- Blackspire Stinger Chain guide
- Superstar Components Mag Pedals
- Superstar Hubs with El Gallo rims with DT Swiss Competition Spokes (front and rear)
- Hayes Nine Brakes (previously had tektro cable disc)
- Superstar 203mm Rotor (front)
- 185mm Rear Rotor
- Hope Seat Clamp
- RRP Neoguard

I managed to source some rims from Ebay, but brand new, and for the price I bought two! To save cost, I built the wheel myself, but i will cover that in another blog.
So as it stands now the Banshee looks like this.
The only problem that remains on this bike and has been in existence for a while is jumping gears, and I think its down to alignment ever since I crashed it (one of many) in gisburn and bent the mech. It is on my to-do list :)
Townsend Singlespeed
For a while I have been keeping an eye on a mailing list called Freecycle (now known as Freegle) for various items of interest. Mainly old consoles and bike-related tat! In the past I have managed to get a Playstation 1 and 2, Gamecube and a Garden shed, of which lasted until it got back to the house and realised it was in too poor a condition to be put together, so out came the saw and made firewood for the fire basket during the summer months.
I have been keeping an eye on some of the bikes because they will more than likely have some working parts that can be used as donors, or even clean them up and keep them or bin them if too far gone, after all I paid nothing except petrol to get them. Therefore during the preparation to go out to play at Delamere Forest, I received an email saying this person was getting rid of an old Townsend mountain bike, and since their location was fairly close to ours, I thought why not, and asked to be considered. No sooner than I hit send, that I got a reply saying its mine if I want it.
The problem was getting the bike home, since my own bike (the carrera) was on the bike rack on the roof, and I didn't know whether the Townsend would fit in the Golf. Considering the muck on the Carrera I didn't fancy putting that in the boot instead. So when I got there, I was again pleasantly surprised at the condition of the bike. Granted it needed a damn good clean and bits and bobs doing to it, but it was free so I was not going to complain.
I do not have a picture of the bike as it arrived, however, this is work in progress of it going from a 21speed mountain bike to a Singlespeed.
As you can see its bright yellow, it has Panaracer Mach SS tyres which are fairly worn but still have life left in them. The grips were worn but usable for the time being.

After speaking to a friend who is a seasoned cyclist and has many bikes in various guises, convinced me that I should head down the singlespeed route.
I had thought about going singlespeed for a while but did not want to convert any of my existing bikes as i like the choice of having gears, whereas that choice would be taken away with a SS.
So first things first, I had the bottom bracket replaced as the existing one was dead, then bought new singlespeed might cranks from ebay (new) which were 38 teeth. Then bought a Superstar Components singlespeed kit (£10) which gave me a 16 tooth cog with spacers to align with the front crank. Although the most common combination is 2:1 (which would mean I would need either a 32 tooth crank up front or change the cog to 19t, I felt that this combination was a good compromise between being able to ride on the road with some speed, but also be able to go offroad, nothing too sinistar, canal paths and bridleways would suffice. It also meant that it would climb fairly well too, plus the fact that it had bullhorn bars, I could hold them comfortably whilst out of the saddle on hills.
So the shopping list for this was as follows:
- Mighty 38T cranks
- Bottom Bracket (courtesy of the one from the giant)
- Singlespeed chain (supplied by said friend)
- Superstar Components Singlespeed kit
- Superstar Components Chain Tensioner (since removed)
- Charlie the Bikemonger Half links (invaluable!)
- Yellow and Black Bar Tape
- Shorter Reach Stem
- Iron Horse Saddle (not my greatest moments, too wide! but cheap)
- Mudguards (provided by same generous friend!)
All in all about 50 quid I would think give or take, and considering the bike cost me nothing, I think thats a good bargain. I have since taken the Panaracer tyres off and replaced them with more road friendly Kenda Kwest tyres I used on the Giant on the Paris trip. This give a lot less rolling resistance and are perfect for commuting to work.
On the left you can see the new bar tape and stem (ebay!), and on the right shows the singlespeed kit mounted, however this has since been removed in favour of a straight chain from crank to cog. (hence the use of the half links from charlie the bike monger)